March 31, 2010

Skirt with pleats and yoke tutorial

Thanks everybody for your nice comments on my new grey skirt, they made my day :-)

As promised here is a tutorial on how to create the pattern for this skirt from a basic skirt sloper.

What you will need:

  • Basic skirt sloper = straight skirt pattern with darts in the front and back
  • Large piece or roll of paper (mine is from IKEA and intended for kids to draw on)
  • Transparent paper (a small piece is sufficient)
  • Curve ruler
  • Set square
  • Large ruler
  • Pencil
  • Glue

Step 1: Copy your front piece of the sloper on the paper.

Step 2: Mark the width of your yoke. Mine has a width of 10 cm at the front centre and a width of 4 cm at the side seam. Now connect these 2 points using your curve ruler.



Step 3: Cut your yoke piece off the front skirt piece and cut away the dart. Glue the 2 resulting pieces on another piece of paper thereby closing the dart. It should look like this:


Step 4: Even out the lines of the yoke by using your curve ruler.



Step 5: Mark in the front skirt piece the pocket opening and the pleats with their length. You can use your hand as a reference for the pocket opening. Mine is 9 cm away from the side seam and has a lenght of 18 cm. The first pleat is 3.5 cm away from the pocket opening with a length of 7 cm. The second pleat is 4 cm away from the first one and has a lenght of 10 cm. I drew in the pleats slightly slanted as I did not want straight pleats but this is up to your decision.


Step 6: Draw in your pocket bag using your hand again as a reference. I also eliminated what was left of the dart. In my case, I could just neglect it as there was little left. If you have more from your dart, you could take it away at the pocket opening or at the pleats.

Step 7: Using the transparent paper copy once only the pocket bag and once the skirt piece with pocket opening and pocket bag. Don't forget to draw a parallel line to the original grain line in both copied pieces.


Step 8: Lengthen the lines of the pleats towards the hem.


Step 9: Cut your skirt pieces apart at the lines you have just created and at the pocket opening. Glue the piece containing the front center on another piece of paper.

Step 10: My pleats have a depth of 4 cm so I marked a point 4 cm away from the glued on piece at the top.


Step 11: Glue on the next piece so that it matches your 4 cm mark and the first pattern piece at the hem. Repeat this step with the last piece. Your result should look like this:



Step 12: Copy your back skirt piece on a piece of paper. And draw in a line parallel to the top at the distance of 4 cm therefore it will match your yoke piece at the side seam.


Step 13: Cut the back yoke away from your back pattern piece. And just as you did with the front yoke piece, glue it on a new piece of paper with the dart closed.


Step 14: Also for the back yoke piece you will have to even out the pattern lines using your curve ruler.





Tada, you're finished! You should now have the following pattern pieces.


Please let me know, what you think about this tutorial and if you use it to create a skirt, please let me know! If you have questions or did not understand something, don't hesitate to ask!

4 comments:

  1. Thank you for the tutorial! :)

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  2. Thank you for your nice comment. I'm glad you like it :)

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  3. This is just what I was looking for, and so clear!

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  4. Me encanto!!!!! la haré para mi nueva colección en índigo!!!!! Gracias!!!!

    ReplyDelete