March 31, 2010

Skirt with pleats and yoke tutorial

Thanks everybody for your nice comments on my new grey skirt, they made my day :-)

As promised here is a tutorial on how to create the pattern for this skirt from a basic skirt sloper.

What you will need:

  • Basic skirt sloper = straight skirt pattern with darts in the front and back
  • Large piece or roll of paper (mine is from IKEA and intended for kids to draw on)
  • Transparent paper (a small piece is sufficient)
  • Curve ruler
  • Set square
  • Large ruler
  • Pencil
  • Glue

Step 1: Copy your front piece of the sloper on the paper.

Step 2: Mark the width of your yoke. Mine has a width of 10 cm at the front centre and a width of 4 cm at the side seam. Now connect these 2 points using your curve ruler.



Step 3: Cut your yoke piece off the front skirt piece and cut away the dart. Glue the 2 resulting pieces on another piece of paper thereby closing the dart. It should look like this:


Step 4: Even out the lines of the yoke by using your curve ruler.



Step 5: Mark in the front skirt piece the pocket opening and the pleats with their length. You can use your hand as a reference for the pocket opening. Mine is 9 cm away from the side seam and has a lenght of 18 cm. The first pleat is 3.5 cm away from the pocket opening with a length of 7 cm. The second pleat is 4 cm away from the first one and has a lenght of 10 cm. I drew in the pleats slightly slanted as I did not want straight pleats but this is up to your decision.


Step 6: Draw in your pocket bag using your hand again as a reference. I also eliminated what was left of the dart. In my case, I could just neglect it as there was little left. If you have more from your dart, you could take it away at the pocket opening or at the pleats.

Step 7: Using the transparent paper copy once only the pocket bag and once the skirt piece with pocket opening and pocket bag. Don't forget to draw a parallel line to the original grain line in both copied pieces.


Step 8: Lengthen the lines of the pleats towards the hem.


Step 9: Cut your skirt pieces apart at the lines you have just created and at the pocket opening. Glue the piece containing the front center on another piece of paper.

Step 10: My pleats have a depth of 4 cm so I marked a point 4 cm away from the glued on piece at the top.


Step 11: Glue on the next piece so that it matches your 4 cm mark and the first pattern piece at the hem. Repeat this step with the last piece. Your result should look like this:



Step 12: Copy your back skirt piece on a piece of paper. And draw in a line parallel to the top at the distance of 4 cm therefore it will match your yoke piece at the side seam.


Step 13: Cut the back yoke away from your back pattern piece. And just as you did with the front yoke piece, glue it on a new piece of paper with the dart closed.


Step 14: Also for the back yoke piece you will have to even out the pattern lines using your curve ruler.





Tada, you're finished! You should now have the following pattern pieces.


Please let me know, what you think about this tutorial and if you use it to create a skirt, please let me know! If you have questions or did not understand something, don't hesitate to ask!

March 28, 2010

Sunday bookmark no.6


This cute leather bow keychain was created by Making Chicken Salad. You can easily make this by following her tutorial here.


Have a lovely Sunday!

On a roll this week


After seeing so many grey skirts with a yoke, pockets and pleats both on Burdastyle and Chictopia, I decided yesterday that I really need one myself. I still had this grey cotton fabric from my aunt's stash cleaning out in my stash as well as matching zipper and thread. As I could surprisingly not find an appropriate pattern in my large amount of pattern magazines (I probably have one but I just can't remember), I created the pattern myself from my skirt sloper.


Here are some more detailled pics:


I'm really happy about the final result even though the fabric is not so suitable as it is a little thin and wrinkles easily. Luckily for you, I took pictures while creating the pattern and hope that I can post a tutorial at the beginning of next week.


Additionally, I created a jersey top this week but as it is not really wearable so far, it will require some alterations.


What are you currently working on?

March 23, 2010

Having a good day and thrift store finds


Like the headline already mentions, I was having a pretty good day today. After much considering, I finally verified my topic for the master thesis with the professor of my choice. And I was surprised to hear that he was thrilled about the topic and liked the facts that made me sweat the most, in particular that nobody has written about it as far as I know and that corresponding literature is hard to find. To make it official, I have decided to research the movement of DIY fashion and its influences on the fashion market for my master thesis, so if anybody knows about literature that could be helpful for me, please let me know!


And what better way to celebrate a good beginning than to go to the thrift store. I finally found some in the city I live, which was quite difficult as thrifting is not particularly popular in Germany. But I have to say that I was pleasantly surprised as second hand articles are usually really overpriced in Germany. In case you are looking for thrift stores in Germany as well, here is the link to their website. The good thing about the unpopularity of thrifting is that those working in thrift stores don't seem to know the real value of what they are selling. All items I bought are definitely vintage somewhere from the 60s and 70s. My yield for the day:

  • Leather purse 4 €
  • Blue silk scarf 2 €
  • Orange scarf 1 €
  • Aigner leather belt 1 €

I'm particularly proud of the last item as Aigner is a highly valued German designer label, however I think that it is nowadays available worldwide.


I hope that you are also having a great day!

March 21, 2010

Sunday bookmark no. 5

Picture thanks to London Purple
Today's bookmark is again something to make your home a little nicer, while being practical at the same time. This great fabric mail sorter was made by London Purple and you can even use leftover fabric for it to make it fit to your home. You can find the detailled and easily understandable tutorial here.


Have a lovely Sunday!

March 17, 2010

Current obsessions

The more I see the following items on fashion sites, the more I get obsessed with them...



Picture thanks to Asos


I love the relaxed style of a boyfriend blazer, especially when it is paired with very girly pieces like ruffles. The free Jorinde pattern from Burdastyle in a slightly longer length would work great for this as the creation of Burdastyle member Jane shows. However, one might also get lucky finding a similar blazer at a second hand or thrift store.


Picture thanks to Burda

I'm not even sure whether this style of pants will work on me or just highlight my weak spots, but the more I see it around, I want to give it a try. Probably best to try it out with some cheap fabric. The picture is from one of the premium downloads that used to be free for subscribers on burdafashion. Unfortunately the pattern has vanished from the surface of the Burda website. If somebody still can find a link for it, please let me know. However, the new Marilyn pants from Burdastyle have almost the same style. Also look which great pants Angela from "Sew I thought" found in thrift stores. Those will also do the job, especially if this is a trend that won't be around for long.


Picture thanks to Asos

In addition, I'm really obsessed with ruffle skirts and am currently working on a self-made pattern as I could not find an appropriate one. I also love this style in a floral print as Burdastyle member Malinfjell demonstrates.
What are you currently obsessed with?

March 14, 2010

Sunday bookmark no.4

Picture thanks to Weekend Designer



Just got back from a week of getting pampered at my parents' place, so today's bookmark will be kept very short. Again a tutorial from the famous weekend designer but I chose this as I have plans to recreate this top in the near future from some purplish jersey I bought. Keep your fingers crossed that the piece of fabric will be big enough.

Happy Sunday!

March 07, 2010

Sunday bookmark no. 3

Picture thanks to craftstylish

Better late than never...I almost missed today's bookmark as I had to finish a project for school. But luckily I got it done on time to post the Sunday bookmark actually on Sunday. I love the look of today's project, it reminds me a little of a Chanel bag with its quilting. Certainly way more stylish than the laptop bags you can find in stores. The detailed tutorial can be found here.

Happy sewing!